Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

A Forced System of Two Cylinders with Various Spacings   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

邹建锋  任安禄邓见 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(3):391-402

The spectrum characteristics and wake structures for a circular cylinder oscillating in a wake are investigated by use of the currently modified virtual boundary method. A forced system of two cylinders with a small spacing ( the downstream one is made to oscillate in the transverse direction) is studied and interesting flow characteristics are observed. A vortex switch and the change of vortex modes (between 2S mode and 2P mode) are observed in the “lock-in“ region. Vortex bands are formed and lost with the increasing excitation frequency. Information concerning saddle points in the flow field is obtained for different excitation frequencies. For a forced system of two cylinders with a large spacing, the upstream cylinder sheds vortexes because there is no downstream cylinder oscillating in the wake. No distinct “lock-in“ response is found for the downstream cylinder.  相似文献   

Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients     

V. Sanil Kumar  N. M. Anand 《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(17-18):2105-2119

In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°.  相似文献   

由粒子吸收光谱提取浮游植物吸收光谱的人工神经网络方法     

刘雪锋  张亭禄 《海洋技术学报》2006,25(3):45-50

基于现场实验数据集及人工神经网络技术,论文提出了一种从海中粒子吸收光谱提取浮游植物吸收光谱的方法。这个数据集包含了海中粒子吸收光谱和对应的浮游植物吸收光谱,并被分为三个子集:训练集、印证集和试验集。本研究所利用的人工神经网络系统为多层感知器,训练后的人工神经网络的性能由印证集和试验集来评价。实验结果表明,文中所提出的方法可成功地提取浮游植物的吸收光谱,其提取精度与传统的实验方法相当。  相似文献   

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系     

黄树生 《海洋学研究》1994,12(4):1-8

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。  相似文献   

黄海表面水温场的准周期变化分析     

汤明义  李洪海 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1989,(Z1)

本文用能谱方法分析了黄海的海表面水温(SST)场的准周期变化。由分析结果清楚地看出,SST具有高频准周期变化:黄海北部以2.6—3.2,1.4—1.7,3.6—3.8和6.7个月的准周期为主;3.3—3.6,5,1.3—2.3及6.7个月在黄海南部占优势。同时,两个海域都有6.7和3.3年的明显的准周期变化。  相似文献   

小珊瑚藻藻红蛋白提取及其稳定性研究     

刘广发  林均民  林枫 《海洋科学》2006,30(11):23-27

以羟基磷灰石柱层析法从小珊瑚藻(Corallinapilulifera)中提取出藻红蛋白,其纯度可达A565/A280大于3,得率为0.173g/kg。该藻红蛋白在498nm和565nm处有两处荧光激发峰,为双峰型。荧光发射光谱检测表明藻红蛋白在pH5.0~10.0溶液中具有较高的稳定性,其中以pH6.0和pH10.0的稳定性最高。该藻红蛋白对光照敏感,光照度800lx照射17h后荧光基本消失。对氧化剂(H2O2)敏感,在9℃以0.1%的H2O2处理24h,荧光基本消失。藻红蛋白不耐高温,80℃处理0.5h,导致蛋白液褪色,荧光消失。  相似文献   

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究     

孙孚  张书文 《海洋与湖沼》2001,32(5):547-550

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。  相似文献   

Pitfalls in the estimation of wind wave directional spectra by variational principles     

Jos Ochoa  Oscar E. Delgado-Gonzlez 《Applied Ocean Research》1990,12(4):180-187

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青岛海陆风三维结构的数值模拟   总被引：4，自引：1，他引：4  

常志清  吴增茂  高山红 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2002,32(6):877-883

本文采用 1个陡地形影响修正的三维中尺度流体静力的气象学模式 ,对青岛地区海陆风的日变化规律和三维结构进行了较细致的分析。结果显示 ,青岛有多支海陆风存在 ,且每支海陆风出现的时间、强度和向内陆伸展的距离有很大的不同。这其中沿岸山地的机械和热力作用扮演着重要的角色。在观测站 ,模拟结果和实测资料等方面有较好的一致性。  相似文献